Black LGBTQIA+ Fashion Pioneers
"Without diversity in fashion, fashion won't exist." - Cousin. These powerful words encapsulate the essence of our co-founder, Randy Cousin, who embodies the true power of diversity and inclusion.
Fashion transcends textiles and garments; it is an industry that leverages self-identity and self-expression. Without creative, expressive individuals, clothing would be reduced to mere thread. The fashion industry has a historical legacy of discriminating against individuals based on race, size, gender, and religion. But in recent years, the fashion industry has witnessed a powerful wave of inclusivity, diversity, and representation. As a result, many Black LGBTQ+ leaders have emerged in the fashion domain, challenging the status quo and reshaping the industry's landscape.
The rise of LGBTQ+ leaders in the fashion industry has resulted in significant positive changes and transformations. They have increased representation along with providing a platform that raises awareness for LGBTQ+ rights, gender equality, gender identity recognition and other LBGTQ+ social justice issues. Of course without the sacrifice and work of some Black LGBTQ+ fashion pioneers none of this would be possible.
Honor and celebrate them with us.
André Leon Talley:
We cannot discuss Black LGBTQ+ leaders in fashion without mentioning the iconic André Leon Talley. Talley, known for his larger-than-life personality and immaculate sense of style, is a renowned fashion journalist and former editor for Vogue magazine.
André Leon Talley takes Paris, 2013.Photographed by Jonathan Becker
Andre Talley grew up in the segregated South. He lived with his grandmother in Durham, North Carolina. Talley traced his understanding of style to watching his grandmother get ready for church on Sundays. After graduating from North Carolina Central University, he went on to receive his Masters Degree from Brown University. He began his career working
Iconic artist, Andy Warhol. Talley served as Warhol's assistant during the early 1970s, gaining valuable experience and exposure to the fashion and art world. Following that he worked for WWD,where he held the position of the Paris Bureau Chief.
He knew more about European history and its relationship to fashion than anyone else he encountered. But his knowledge was often met with skepticism. He described himself as “the only Black man among a sea of white titans of style.”
André Talley collection on view at the New York auction house.
Mr. Talley became the first Black creative director of Vogue Magazine. Throughout his career, he has amplified the voices of black designers, pushed for diversity in the industry, and served as a mentor to aspiring talents. Talley's unapologetic presence and fearless advocacy have made a lasting impact on the fashion landscape.
Willi Smith
Willi Smith was an openly gay trailblazing fashion icon whose unique vision and innovative designs continue to inspire the industry today. Willi Smith's career in fashion began in the early 1970s when he partnered with Laurie Mallet to establish the iconic fashion label WilliWear. The brand was founded on the principles of accessibility, inclusivity, and celebrating individuality. He is often credited as the inventor of streetwear. Smith blurred the lines between high fashion and street culture, helping redefine the notion of luxury.
Willi Smith
Willi started his career at Parsons School of Design in 1974 thanks to receiving two scholarships. From 1969 to 1973 he worked as lead designer for the sportswear brand Digits. In 1976, Willi Smith embarked on a transformative journey that would shape his career. Joined by Laurie Mallet, he ventured to Mumbai, where they crafted a captivating collection of women's clothing using natural fibers. Drawing inspiration from Indian police uniforms, the collection surpassed all expectations, resonating with audiences and experiencing immediate success.
Smith’s pinnacle of success was reached in 1986, when his company’s revenue broke through the $25 million ceiling. He made costumes for theater and film, collaborated with Spike Lee, and designed the wedding dress worn by Mary Jane Watson in The Amazing Spider-Man #21 comic book.
Willi Smith autumn 1975 collection.
The Williwear New York showroom in 1982.
Regarded as "the most successful black designer in the history of fashion" by The New York Daily News, he was a visionary ahead of his time, leaving an indelible mark on the industry.
Tracey "Africa" Norman
Tracey 'Africa' Norman was the 1st Black trans model who was featured on major publications.
Tracey Norman’s model card
In 1975, she accidentally wandered into a model casting for the European designer Basile. As fate would have it, Tracey got the booking. Famed photographer Irving Penn was impressed by Norman's beauty and confidence and signed her to a contract.
Norman quickly became a successful model, appearing in campaigns for major brands such as Clairol and Avon. Norman's breakthrough moment came when she had a magazine cover and life story spread in New York Magazine.
Before the New York magazine coverage Tracey had a career as a makeup artist and fashion stylist. When asked what's next, Tracey says, "I have no idea, I never planned any of this, all I ever really wanted was to live a quiet and respectful life, I never realized that at some point I'd be considered a role model.”
In the middle of her rise Norman was outed on the set of a shoot for Essence magazine. “And that's the day my career ended," she says. "Because the next day I called my agency and there was nothing."
After her agency learned about her transgender identity, Norman's bookings declined, and she faced difficulties securing work in the fashion industry. The prevailing societal prejudices and lack of understanding surrounding transgender individuals at the time made it challenging for her to continue her successful modeling career.
Norman's story exemplifies the struggles faced by transgender individuals in a society that stigmatizes and marginalizes them. Despite the setbacks she experienced, Norman's impact as the first openly transgender Black model remains significant.
Clairol hair dye advertisement in 1976 featuring Norman
Many of today’s Trans-stars, such as: Laverne Cox, Janet Mock, Lea T, Andrej Pejic, Valentijn de Hingh, Carmen Carrera, Teri Toye and Tula, have credited Tracey for helping to encourage and inspire them.
Aaron Rose Philip
Although Philip is only 22 years old, her impact has been significant and inspiring. As the first Black transgender disabled model to sign with a major agency, her achievements have had a profound impact on the industry's understanding of inclusivity and representation. In 2018, Philip's talent and groundbreaking presence caught the eye of Elite Model Management, one of the world's leading modeling agencies.
She is driven by the lack of disability representation in the fashion and beauty industry. Philip's presence in high-profile campaigns, runway shows, and on magazine covers shatter stereotypes and challenged traditional beauty standards.
She actively uses her platform to raise awareness about disability rights, transgender issues, and the intersectionality of marginalized identities. Her impact challenges societal norms and serves as an inspiration for future generations of models and activists striving for a more equitable and diverse world.
“I would like to see fashion and beauty evolve with inclusivity and diversity by actually doing it, instead of virtue signaling, instead of not amplifying the voices in a way that you need to amplify the voices. Whether that’s by casting models that are not cis, white, skinny, and able-bodied- I would like to see more people like me on covers of major magazines, on runaways and in campaigns.” -Aaron Rose for Vogue.
The impact of Black LGBTQ+ leaders in the fashion industry has been profound and transformative. Their presence has brought a wave of inclusivity, diversity, and representation that challenges the industry's traditional norms and narratives. Through their creativity, individuality, and unwavering determination, they have shattered barriers and opened doors for marginalized communities.
These leaders have not only made significant contributions to the fashion industry but have also paved the way for future generations to express themselves freely and unapologetically.
