Amplifying Black Stories
Celebrate Black History Month with us!
Creatives Want Change is dedicated to uplifting the voices and work of Black artists. Too often Black voices go unheard or worse get used without due credit. We want to start Black History Month by showcasing 3 under-recognized Black fashion designers.
Jay Jaxon
Jaxon graduated from F.I.T. in 1966. As the first Black American couturier in the Paris maisons in the late ’60s and early '70s, Jaxon made significant contributions to the industry.
He designed for Jean-Louis Scherrer, a former French fashion house, and renowned fashion houses like Givenchy, Yves Saint Laurent, and Dior.
The Queens-born fashion designer also created clothes for performers and singers like Annie Lennox. Despite his achievements, Jaxon's historical contributions have been excluded from fashion and historical narratives.
Jaxon likely sensed that over time, his contributions to fashion might be forgotten. While making a name for himself, he made sure to keep records like documents, clothing labels, and signed sheets. This ensured his designs would be preserved in the archives of fashion companies and media.
His sister, Arlene Patterson, stated that "Jay was ahead of his time." Jaxon's audacity and fearlessness in pursuing his dreams as a designer were evident, showcasing his deep love for the craft.
He also designed costumes for the Grammy Awards and outfits for dancers in a 1983 television tribute to Motown Records. His costumes appeared on TV shows like “Ally McBeal” and “American Dreams” and in movies like “Mr. & Mrs. Smith” (2005).
In the Jim Crow Era, Jay Jaxon was the first American and Black American couturier to lead a prestigious French haute couture maison. His transformative impact on fashion is not a historical footnote but a contribution that emphasizes the importance of diverse representation in fashion.
Rosemary Reed Miller
Rosemary Reed Miller is a businesswoman who opened her “Toast and Strawberries” clothing boutique in Washington, DC in 1966. Her goal was to present fashion that couldn’t be found in major department stores and her shop became a fixture in Dupont Circle
She was born June 22, 1939, in Yeadon, PA. She received a bachelor’s degree in history from Temple University in Philadelphia.
When “Toast and Strawberries” opened, she was the only Black woman boutique owner in DC at the time.
In her boutique’s first few years, DC grappled with the remnants of segregation and the riots after the 1968 assassination of Martin Luther King, Jr.
“Toast and Strawberries” was not just a clothing and home accessories store; it also sponsored poetry readings, book signings, business seminars, and fashion shows for civic and social groups.
Ms. Reed Miller also became an advocate for women in business, particularly Black women.
She was profoundly interested in the Black talent in fashion. Miller published a book on Black dressmakers from the 19th to the 21st centuries - "Threads of Time, The Fabric of History: Profiles of African American Dressmakers and Designers, 1850-2003."
She also developed a program to educate others about the history of Black women in dressmaking and designing.
“Being a woman is the hardest thing in the world,” she told The Post in 2000, “but I do think there are celebratory parts about it. You should enjoy being a female, take joy in putting together a whole outfit or look.”
Scott Barrie
Scott Barrie was a bold designer who made his mark on New York's Seventh Avenue in the late 1960s. He was inspired by his godmother's work with renowned jazz singers Dinah Washington and Sarah Vaughan. Despite initial skepticism from his mother about success in fashion for Black people, Barrie set out to prove her wrong.
Born Nelson Clyde Barr in Apalachicola, Florida, Barrie began making clothes on his grandmother’s sewing machine when he was just 10 years old.
“I practically grew up under that machine, pedaling the thing for her.”
He attended the Philadelphia Museum College of Art and the Mayer School in New York in 1966.
His career started in his New York apartment, with a makeshift cutting table and sewing machine. He gained traction when prestigious stores like Henri Bendel and Bloomingdale's placed orders for his jersey dresses. By 1969, Barrie established “Barrie Sport” and expanded to workrooms at 530 Seventh Avenue.
In the ‘70s, Barrie positioned himself as a creator of sexy garments, particularly noteworthy for his provocative evening wear featuring skinny gowns sprinkled with paillettes and high splits. He also designed fur, loungewear, and accessories, while dabbling in costume design. He created clothing for numerous films and The Joffrey Ballet.
In the early ‘80s, Barrie closed his label and took on design positions at other companies. He later moved to Alessandria, Italy to work for the Italian design house “Krizia” and the Japanese firm “Kinshido.”
Although little is mentioned of these 3 pioneers in fashion, their contributions are vast and have a resounding impact on the fashion industry today. Use this year's Black History Month to uplift the voices and work of the many overlooked and under appreciated Black artists. Together we can educate the masses on the power of Black people's creations.
